The DUDE Game System

Diceless Universal Determination Engine

by Mark Damon Hughes <kamikaze@kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu>

Copyright © 2000 by Mark Damon Hughes. All rights reserved. Permission is granted to print and use free of charge, but do not redistribute - always refer others back to these originals at <http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~kamikaze/DUDE/>


Credits

Special thanks to Julie Hoverson for three of four letters of the acronym, and Brett Evill and Eric Tolle for the term "dudeness" that started this ridiculous thing.


DUDE is a common system for a number of extremely simple roleplaying games; the first of these is The Alan Smithee Project, the RPG of Hollywood gone wrong (as usual). DUDE is the acronym for "Diceless Universal Determination Engine":

Diceless:
DUDE uses regular playing cards for task resolution instead of the dice common in other games, and by holding different-sized hands, each player has more or less control over the results of their actions, rather than being at the mercy of blind chance.
Universal:
DUDE can theoretically represent any genre. However, it does work best at fast action-adventure stories or freeform dramatic gaming; complex mechanical simulation of a world is not within DUDE's abilities.
Determination:
DUDE uses a unified task system to handle all actions. And unlike other (overly-complex) games, it doesn't waste your time trying to remember which stat affects a task.
Engine:
DUDE is only the basic mechanics of an RPG - you will need to acquire or write a setting book. See The Alan Smithee Project for an example of what needs to be developed in such a book.

Designer's Rant: About rules-light games: The author believes that rules-light games like DUDE encourage roleplaying more than rules-heavy games, because there is so little system that it cannot be used well without extensive roleplaying. "Used well" is a key word there, because it is quite possible to play a rules-light game as bland and mechanical hack-and-slash - and then you don't even have the advantage of interesting mechanics to keep you entertained. On the other hand, there is nothing wrong with rules-heavy games, and you can have as much or more roleplaying in such a game, depending on the players, it's just not mandatory to have a good game with a rules-heavy game. Roleplaying in a rules-heavy game does require the players to know and "internalize" more rules so they can use them appropriately, but if someone is having an off night, the system can at least cover for their lack; if someone is off in a rules-light game, it blows it for everyone. The author plays and enjoys some of the most complex games on the market, as well as some of the simplest. Use each in their appropriate place and setting, and with like-minded gamers, and you'll do no wrong.

Oh, and the little guy in the DUDE logo is Mikey the Angry Stick-Figure. Don't fuck with Mikey or he'll pop a cap in your ass.


Terminology

Adventure:
An entire story, usually taking several game sessions to complete.
Boss:
A major character controlled by the Dealer, who does have a hand of cards equal to their DUDEness.
Dealer:
The player who creates and runs an adventure. The Dealer may also be called the "Director", "Game Master", or other special term. In The Alan Smithee Project, for instance, the Dealer must always referred to as "Alan", regardless of his or her real name.
Extra:
A character controlled by the Dealer, who has no hand of cards. Also called "cannon fodder", "mook", "thug", or "ork".
Game Session:
A single meeting of the gaming group to play; most sessions last 3-8 hours.
PC:
Player Character - a character run, as you might expect, by a player other than the Dealer.


Materials Needed For Play:

  1. Pencils and paper to record your character and for notes. The official DUDE Character Sheet is convenient, but hardly necessary for this game. The Dealer might want to print up a few spare copies of the power sheet, cut it up, and use it to distribute powers as they come up, however.
  2. 1-2 decks of regular playing cards; if you have more than 3 players, you will want 2 decks.
  3. Poker chips or other counters. You will need up to 20 white, 10 red, and 10 blue per player. The blue chips are only needed if certain kinds of Powers are used in the game.
  4. Using play money for treasure and buying things is optional but fun. The Dealer must make sure the players write down how much money they have at the end of each game session, and give them that much back at the start of the next.


Character Creation

The following is the standard DUDE character creation system. Various games and adventures based on DUDE may use different systems or offer pregenerated characters. If pregenerated characters are available, each player draws a card, and the one with the high card gets to choose first, then each other player in order of the card they drew; tied players draw again to determine which of them goes first.

  1. Come up with a character concept as a short phrase ("Macho Mechanic", "Amazon", "Rich Dandy", "Pyromaniac Engineer", whatever makes you happy).
  2. Talk your idea over with the Dealer and see if the character would fit the game. Among other things, being able to work with the other PCs as a group is a requirement in some games and adventures, but irrelevant or even detrimental in others.
  3. Flesh out the character with a full description - name, appearance, psychology, and background. This doesn't have to be extensive, just a paragraph or so for each aspect if that's all you feel like doing. Writing more than a page total is probably excessive.
  4. Decide on the character's DUDEness, and see if the Dealer agrees with you. In all cases, the Dealer's word is law. A good guideline for a first adventure is for normal people to have 3 DUDEness and weird or combat-oriented types 5 DUDEness. In The Alan Smithee Project, anyone played by a major movie star gets additional DUDEness, and some have automatic scores: Angela Bassett, Jackie Chan, Sigourney Weaver, Bruce Willis, and Michelle Yeoh (just to name a few actors whose characters can do anything, always win in the end, and always look cool doing it) automatically have 10 DUDEness.
  5. Decide (and discuss with the Dealer) which, if any, Powers the character starts with. Feel free to invent any new Powers, or modify existing ones, as you like.
  6. Decide (and discuss with the Dealer) which, if any, Drawbacks the character starts with. Feel free to invent any new Drawbacks, or modify existing ones, as you like.
  7. Decide (and discuss with the Dealer) how much money the character starts with.

Designer's Rant: This is admittedly and unashamedly a very subjective system. Some overly self-righteous gamers feel that such a system is not a "system", or is "incomplete", because it requires actual discussion with other people (the Dealer) and the exercise of their judgement. They believe the only valid "systems" are those with endless tables and formulae which allow you to avoid all contact with any other people while making a character, and which remove the risk of actually playing a role instead of playing a set of numbers. These people are wankers, and you should refuse to play with them.


DUDEness

Characters in DUDE have a single ability score, called "DUDEness". DUDEness can represent different things in each setting, whatever is most important for ranking different people. All of a character's abilities are based on DUDEness. DUDEness normally ranges from 1 for a completely incompetent and irrelevant character to 10 for the maximum ability. Giant monsters, superheroes, and anyone with exceptional abilities in a focused area are rated on the same scale as everyone else and just have Powers to represent their advantages.

Designer's Rant: Okay, I know this is going to bother some people, but it's not all that different from many other RPGs. Using the example of a certain game system that I don't like very much <http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~kamikaze/documents/wrong_adnd.html>, the only stat that matters is level. Most players are going to pick ability scores so they are all either maximum ("I got lucky rolling my character up! Dave witnessed it! And I witnessed his rolls!") or a bit above the minimum for your class (but never low enough for penalties), if they don't matter. Hit points are based on your level, and, again, will be within a few points of maximum. The "non-weapon proficiency" (out in the real world we call them "skills", you dorks) system in that game is a pathetic joke, with all skills either being non-existent or equal to the ability score (it's a waste of time to try improving them, at +5% every few levels), which we've just determined is going to be maxed-out. The only other parts that make any difference are gender, race, class, and alignment ("M Human Fighter 10, CE", anyone?) and those would be represented with setting-specific Powers. The Power system isn't even that dissimilar - most of that game's players describe their characters in terms of what magic items and spells they have, not in terms of who their character IS.

Some people say "be thankful that they're playing that instead of hassling real gamers", but I'm an eternal optimist - I like to think that if they were given real game systems (or even DUDE), they could learn to role-play.


Powers

"Powers" represent anything in the game aside from the DUDEness: equipment, skills, magic, superpowers, or whatever the Dealer allows. All Powers use the same description format, as shown below. Seriously, go print that second page of the character sheet off a few times, chop it up, and write the Powers on each of the cards. This is one of the best props you can bring to a game.

Power:
The name of the Power.
Type:
What category of Power it is. The usual types are "Natural Ability", "Equipment", "Magic Spell", "Psionics", "Superpower", or "Miracle", but it can be any descriptive phrase you like.
Activation Time:
The number of turns of preparation time a character must spend doing nothing else (whether meditating, working on the problem, or whatever) before the Power takes effect. If the character is interrupted (by a successful attack or by a Power or anything else that the Dealer decides would break concentration), the Power cannot be used. The Dealer might let the player attempt a task to ignore the distraction.
Blue Chips:
The number of blue chips the player must pay in order to activate the Power - most cost 0, and most of the rest cost 1, but a few very special Powers do cost more. The chips are paid after the activation time, but before determining success.
Difficulty:
How hard the Power is to use. Almost all Powers require the character to make a task check at the given difficulty, and the Power only works if the check succeeds. "Automatic" means that no task check is necessary. "Combat" Difficulty means that the Combat rules determine whether the attacker hits or misses, and the Power will tell you how much damage or other effects are done. So if the Power says "Difficulty: 8", you need to play an 9 or better to activate it.
Range:
The maximum range the target can be from the character and still be affected by the Power. "Self" indicates that the Power can only be used on yourself. "Touch" Powers require the target to be in arm's reach (the Power may possibly be used through other body parts, or even extended with a staff or wand or other item, if the Dealer agrees to it). "Line of Sight" works on any target that the Power's user can see, with no opaque obstacles in between; the Dealer can decide if any given power works through windows, video cameras, or other barriers. Occasionally a specific distance will be given, and anything within that distance can be affected, but DUDE is not usually concerned with precise numbers.
Duration:
The amount of time the Power remains in effect. This could be specific units. "Instant" indicates that the power happens, its effect is applied, and that's it. "Concentration" Powers remain in effect as long as the user continues to concentrate on keeping it up and controlling it; it can be disrupted by the same things as Activation Time. "Permanent" Powers are actually only permanent until removed by an appropriate Power, or some condition is met.
Area of Effect:
The number of targets that can be affected, or a volume centered on a point within range, where all targets within that volume are affected. If the Area of Effect effects more than one target, a separate Difficulty check must be made for each one.
Description:
The actual effect of the Power.
Power: Fist Type: Natural Ability
Activation Time: 0 Range: touch
Blue Chips: 0 Duration: instant
Difficulty: combat Area of Effect: 1 target
Description: Pow! The target takes 1 damage on a successful hit. Essentially all human characters should have this Power - don't even bother writing it on the character sheet; make a note if you don't have it.
Power: Small Pistol Type: Equipment
Activation Time: 0 Range: line of sight
Blue Chips: 0 Duration: instant
Difficulty: combat Area of Effect: 1 target
Description: Attacks a target with a small-calibre pistol (up to 9mm), doing 3 points of damage per successful hit. It holds 6-17 rounds of ammunition per clip, depending on model.
Power: Magic Arrow Type: Magic Spell
Activation Time: 0 Range: line of sight
Blue Chips: 1 Duration: instant
Difficulty: automatic Area of Effect: 1 target
Description: A glowing guided missile made of magic energy flies from the caster's hands and strikes the target without fail, doing 2 points of damage per successful hit.


Drawbacks

Drawbacks are the exact opposite of powers: they limit what a character can do. Any disadvantage that the Dealer agrees to is acceptable; some DUDE settings may have some specific Drawbacks already listed. The essential rule, as with any disadvantage system, is that a Drawback that does not limit the character is not a valid Drawback.


Chips

There are three kinds of chips (or other counters) used in DUDE; the colors mentioned here are the ones most common in poker chips, but any color substitutions are allowed as long as everyone knows which is which (for instance, you may have only red, green, and black beads, and declare that black is white, green is blue, and red is red).

At the start of an adventure, the Dealer gives each player a number of white chips equal to their character's DUDEness, and the same number of blue chips if the character has any Powers that use them. Characters usually do not start adventures with any red chips. At the end of each game session, each player must record how many of each kind of chip their characters have. At the start of each game session after the first in an adventure, the same number of chips recorded are taken back out.

At no point may any player have more than twice as many white or red chips as their character's DUDEness, nor more blue chips than their character's DUDEness (exception: some Powers may allow a character to have additional blue chips).

It is possible for a player to bring in additional white chips from another, previous character, if they were not cashed in (see Winning). If the player would have more than twice as many white chips as their character's DUDEness, they must immediately be spent to improve the character's DUDEness, or discarded.


White Chips:
White chips allow a player to "break the rules"; they can represent luck, karma, audience approval, influence on a movie lot, or any other similar factor. When a player uses a white chip, the Dealer will decide what happens, but there are some general guidelines. If a "Player vs. Universe" or "Player vs. Extra" task is being performed, the player wins automatically. If a "Player vs. Player" or "Player vs. Boss" task is being performed, each chip adds 1 to the player's total; this can be done after both players have played their cards, and both players can increase their "ante" in turns until one gives up. If an Extra is being interacted with, and the interaction could go well or badly, a white chip ensures that the Extra is friendly and cooperative (or exactly the opposite, if the player is itching for a fight, but most players can provoke a fight without chips just fine). White chips can be spent to discard red chips at a one for one rate, either when the damage is first taken or at a later time. At any time, the Dealer may offer players the chance to buy their way out of a problem or get a lucky break or survive "certain doom" for one or more white chips.

Whenever a player succeeds in a task check without using a white chip, they gain an additional white chip.

White chips can also be saved up and spent to increase a character's DUDEness; this costs a number of white chips equal to twice the character's current DUDEness. When a character does this during a game, they can immediately discard all red chips and recover all blue chips up to their new DUDEness score, and get to draw one more card for their hand.


Blue Chips:
Blue chips represent the amount of energy left to activate various Powers. Some Powers give additional effects for spending more than the minimum number of blue chips. With the Dealer's permission, a character who has run out of blue chips may instead take wounds to fuel their Powers, taking one red chip per blue chip they do not have.

Blue chips are fully recovered after every night of complete rest - the character needs 8 hours of uninterrupted sleep.


Red Chips:
Red chips represent wounds and damage a character has taken. When a character has as many red chips as their DUDEness, they are knocked unconscious until after the fight is over, when they will discard one red chip if they survive. If a character ever receives more red chips than their DUDEness, they are incapacitated and dying. Incapacitated characters can be healed with Powers, but do not heal on their own during an adventure. If a character ever has a total of twice their DUDEness in red chips, they are dead, deceased, mortified, gone, pushing up daisies, toast, game over, kicked the bucket, and bought the farm. It is time to make a new character unless there is someone who can raise the dead (a fairly rare Power). Between adventures, it can be assumed that all characters heal up all injuries short of death.

Occasionally death will not be the end - for instance, in The Alan Smithee Project, on-screen deaths only end the character's involvement in that particular movie, and the character can still play off-screen; but if the character dies off-screen, it's dead for good.

Even then, DUDE is not meant to be a deeply realistic game, so reappearing alive and well in the next episode, with a cliffhanger-style "saved at the last moment" rescue story, is perfectly fine if the Dealer and players don't mind. On the other hand, sometimes a player may wish to retire a character, and the Dealer and players should never forbid anyone from getting rid of a character they no longer wish to play. (The designer has encountered this before, and it's worth noting).


Cards

At the start of each game session, the Dealer shuffles the deck, and each player is dealt a number of cards equal to their character's DUDEness.

Whenever a player's hand of cards reaches half their DUDEness or less (rounding down), the player should refill their hand up to their character's DUDEness.
DUDEness Refill At
1 0
2 1
3 1
4 2
5 2
DUDEness Refill At
6 3
7 3
8 4
9 4
10 5

If a character gains DUDEness during a game, an additional card is immediately drawn. If a character loses DUDEness during a game, a randomly-chosen card from the hand is discarded (even if the player currently has less than their maximum number of cards).

At the end of the game session, the cards are given back to the Dealer and shuffled back into the deck.


Tasks

There are five kinds of tasks:

  1. Player vs. Universe
  2. Player vs. Extra
  3. Player vs. Boss
  4. Player vs. Player
  5. Extended Task

Whenever a player is instructed to "play a card", the character's player picks a card from their hand (refilling their hand if they have fallen below half their hand), lays it out in front and calls out the value of the card. Ace through 10 have values of 1-10.

On a face card, the player draws another card off the top of the deck (not out of the player's hand!); if that card is also a face card, the total value is 0; otherwise, the total value is equal to the second card's value (1-10), plus 1 if the first card was a Jack, 3 if the first card was a Queen, or 5 if the first card was a King. Playing a face card can be risky, but it's the only way to perform above and beyond the usual call of duty.

"Player vs. Universe" occurs whenever a player attempts to perform a stunt or action where there is no living opposition. In such cases, the Dealer decides on the difficulty of the action, rated from 1 to 10 (or even higher), and the action succeeds if the player's card has an equal or higher value than the difficulty, or fails if the card has a lower value than the difficulty.

"Player vs. Extra" occurs whenever a player attempts to perform a stunt or action against an Extra, or the other way around. Extras never have cards of their own, so their attacks and actions are treated as difficulties for player character defenses and actions. The difficulty is equal to the Extra's DUDEness (though Extras often have a low DUDEness, that is not always true - some have extraordinarily high DUDEness, even though they're still just cannon fodder). If the player's card has an equal or higher value than the Extra's DUDEness, the player wins and/or the Extra's action fails; if lower, the player loses and/or the Extra's action succeeds.

"Player vs. Player" and "Player vs. Boss" work the same way - two players, or a player and the Dealer, each play a card face down, then reveal them simultaneously. The one with the higher card wins, and ties may be replayed or may result in a deadlock, at the Dealer's option.

"Extended Tasks" are handled like one of the previous four types, but a single success is not enough; the character must try the task over and over, one try per turn, until the number of successes the Dealer requires have been accumulated. A failure in an extended task is usually just a delay; but if the next task check is also a failure, the task goes catastrophically wrong. Defusing a bomb is the stereotypical example.

Remember, whenever a player succeeds in a task check without using a white chip, they gain an additional white chip.


Combat

Combat, and all dramatic action, occurs in "turns", which can vary in length, depending on the pacing of a scene, from 1 second to hours. During each turn, the following sequence of play happens:

  1. The Dealer describes the scene, and what all of the Extras are doing this turn.
  2. Starting on the Dealer's left and going clockwise, each player declares what their character is doing this turn.
  3. The Dealer declares what all of the Bosses, if any are involved, are doing this turn.
  4. The Dealer resolves the actions of the Bosses.
  5. Starting on the Dealer's right and going counterclockwise, each player resolves their character's action.
  6. The Dealer resolves the actions of the Extras.

If the Dealer feels like it, the direction of play (clockwise swapped for counterclockwise, left swapped for right) can be reversed after every turn, every combat, or whenever it seems appropriate.

As mentioned in Tasks, Extras and the universe do not get cards of their own. When an Extra attacks (or uses any other Power on) a PC or a Boss, the character with cards plays a card and adds any defensive bonuses from Powers. If the Extra succeeds, the PC or Boss takes the damage or other effect of the Power; if not, the attack fails.

PCs and Bosses who attack other PCs or Bosses both play a card; if the attacker wins, the defender is hit; if the defender wins, the attack misses.

When an attack hits, the Power used determines the damage. Almost all characters have the "Fist" Power (1 damage), which is used if nothing else is available. If a character has a Power that reduces damage, like body armor, subtract that now. Any remaining points of damage are given to the target as red chips. See Chips for the effects of gaining red chips.


Winning

There are definite winners and losers to most DUDE games. The standard victory condition is money - whoever dies or ends the game with the most wealth wins (so if someone dies halfway through the game with $1M, and the rest of the players never get more than $1000, the dead character is the winner). Each white chip left over is worth an additional 10% of the money, if the player is willing to turn it in, so $100 and 3 white chips equal $130. White chips saved to be given to the player's character in the next game are not worth money. However, most games also have some larger goal, which will also be worth percentages of the original money, and letting the villains win generally means that all of the players lose equally, and the Dealer may laugh cruelly at all of them.


2000May09
Changed the card system so you don't redraw after every card, and task ties now go to the player.
2000May04
Created